Saturday, August 30, 2014

The Man Who Robbed the Wrong Bank

Grave site on the lower Caja.
Believed to mark the grave of the
Man Who Robbed the Wrong Bank
A shot of whiskey and a glass of beer is called a Boilermaker in Wisconsin; in Santa Fe it's a Preacher's Crutch. I know what you are thinking, but reason for that name is to honor a man, not disparage a profession.

In the mid 1870's a one legged itinerant preacher arrived in Santa Fe along with a load of muslin cloth. Georg Berleth lost his leg during the Civil War in a skirmish near Shiloh. Georg was the son of a German speaking Lutheran immigrant who'd settled in Ohio after fleeing the incessant warfare of Europe. Too poor to escape the draft, Georg seems to have been wounded in his first battle. Georg liked to refer to himself as “Captain” but (at least according to his pension records) he was an enlisted man. Somehow in the next decade Georg picked up a Bible and learned to preach as he worked his way westward. And he learned to drink.

As a protestant in a Catholic territory, Georg stood out and quickly “Preacher Crutch” became a well known figure on the Plaza, showing up around noon, leaning on his crutch, preaching and entertaining the curious. After an hour or two, Georg would reach his climax, “hopping in a small circle, pivoting on his crutch, waving his Bible over his head, hallelujah'ing and amen'ing”. This would earn him enough small change to fund his remaining afternoon in a tavern.

On September 7, 1876, a Thursday, just as the typical afternoon mountain clouds began to thunder, Georg entered the Tecolote Tavern, ordered his standard shot-in-a-mug and sat next to Jack, a local trapper who spent most of his time in town. In bars, actually. Jack's last name was possibly L'Peer (the Daily New Mexican) or Pierson (Territorial Court records). Jack occasionally earned a meal or provisions by cleaning out the corn field's acequia's just south-east of the Plaza. Jack often found himself in fights, seemingly always on the loosing side. On this day, Jack would become known as the Man Who Robbed The Wrong Bank.

Jack knew that tomorrow, Friday, was to be the Santa Fe Lumber and Transfer Company's semi-annual payday, a day eagerly awaited by their employees, suppliers and the local merchants. A fairly substantial amount of cash had just been delivered to the bank and was being prepared for tomorrow's distribution. Jack knew it would be easy to walk in the bank, take the cash and dash. Jack was going to finish his drink, maybe finish another one too, and then become rich.

Jack seems to have had an inspiration when Preacher Crutch sat next to him. Jack had no partner and thought it would be good to have someone watch his back and the Preacher was perfect: a partner he wouldn't have to pay (the Preacher couldn't keep up in the escape) and maybe a patsy (they could catch the Preacher while Jack escaped). But Jack knew the Preacher wouldn't rob a bank, so he explained to the Preacher that he was leaving town for a better life in Las Cruces and would be taking his life savings from the bank but was afraid he'd be robbed before he left town. He said the Preacher was the only person he could trust and asked the Preacher to accompany him. He flattered the Preacher by repeatedly calling him “Captain”. The bartender overheard a little of this conversation but it seems the only thing he heard or remembered was “Captain.”

Around three o'clock, as the thunder became actual rain, Jack and Preacher Crutch left the bar and walked across the Plaza to the First National Bank. As they approached the bank, Jack gave the Preacher a pistol “just in case” and told the Preacher to “wait near the door, I'll only be a couple of minutes.”

Jack's plan had a few holes in it, the main one was that the cash was actually at the Second National Bank, not the First. And The First National Bank had a guard. Jack entered the wrong bank, fired a few drunken shots and shouted something. The guard fired equally ineffective shots back at Jack. The Preacher was stunned, then realized Jack was in fact trying to rob the bank and fired a couple of shots himself. Jack was struck in the buttocks by at least one bullet, probably fired by the Preacher even though the guard took credit (and the reward) for the shot (since Jack was facing the guard, it seems unlikely the guard's shot hit the backside of Jack, but no one seems to have considered this at the time).

Jack quickly fled, followed by Preacher Crutch. The rain was now a storm with “skull crushing hail” (from the hyperbolic Santa Fe Review) and as the Preacher hopped and shouted after Jack, he was captured by Willi Spiegleberg. Actually it was more like Willi helped Preacher Crutch back to his feet after the Preacher slipped on the hail.

Willi was an owner and the cashier of the Second National Bank, the bank that Jack should have tried to rob. Willi and his three brothers were Jewish immigrants from Germany, arriving in New York when they were of school age and moving to Santa Fe as young men, where they started a dry goods wholesale and retail business and provided supplies to the army. The brothers had opened the Second National Bank about ten years earlier and were doing very well indeed.

Doing so well that Willi was able to travel back to Germany for a year, where he met and married his new wife Flora. Flora was also from a Jewish German immigrant family, growing up in New York and going to Germany to further her education. I guess Flora found Willi more interesting than school and they were married in Nueremberg before returning to the US and to Santa Fe. Flora was shocked by her new frontier life but quickly adapted and became a leading society figure and got involved with a number of laudable social causes. And now her husband The Banker became her husband The Hero.

By now people from the First National Bank had arrived at Willi's side, grabbed Preacher Crutch and excitedly accused Preacher of robbery. As Willi later testified “I heard noises that weren't thunder so I look and I see Preacher running and shouting at someone. I think he was shouting to wait, to help the Preacher. Then I learn the Preacher robbed First.” The crowd wanted to lynch Preacher Crutch on the spot but Willi convinced them to "let justice speak."

Meanwhile Jack escaped out the west side of the Plaza and as he had a gun but hadn't taken any money, no one bothered to pursue him. A bit down the road Jack found a donkey owned by an Ortiz and rode the donkey out of town. Or as the Review said “He fled on Ortiz's ass as he bled from his own ass.”

On Sunday the donkey returned alone to Ortiz. About a week or more later Joseph Trujillo from the Cochiti Pueblo arrived in town with a pair of boots. Trujillo said as he was traveling along the Camino Adentro, he noticed “activity” in the desert and upon investigating, found “remains beyond recognition.” I assume this means vultures were eating the corpse. Trujillo was a devout Catholic and he covered the few bones and other remains with rocks, said a prayer and brought the boots to town. Jack was identified by the boots which were “notoriously ill-kept.” Trujillo was briefly detained (after all, he was an Indian with a white man's property, even if the white man was Jack) but Jack had no money, the boots had no value and there wasn't much motive for robbery or murder. Further, Trujillo was well known to the Spieglebergs, in particular Flora, and they vouched for him. Trujillo was freed and so Jack's story ended.

Preacher Crutch was arrested and convicted. Clearly he entered the bank with a gun, he fired it, he fled. The bartender reported Preacher's meeting with Jack and the overheard “Captain” which was taken as proof that the Preacher was the leader of this gang. Didn't take too much to convict in those days.

The Preacher spent the next several years in the Territorial Prison just a block away from his former preaching grounds. The New Mexico prison was infamously harsh but given his one leg, Preacher Crutch was treated better than most. Flora took an interest in the Preacher, visiting him several times, learning and eventually believing his version of the story (and much of this comes from Flora's Frontier Diaries). The Preacher didn't want to be known as a thief but he did lament his shooting (and thus killing) of Jack and felt he deserved punishment for that reason. The Preacher said prison was good for him: he was sober for the first time in more than a decade and he had a chance to do some real preaching. It does seem he affected a few prison conversions.

Among Flora's many connections was Archbishop Lamy, who had became a good friend. Before she and her husband returned to New York to give their daughters a chance to marry within their faith (and where she would become a leading advocate for public sanitation, earning herself the title “Garbage Can Flora”), Flora prevailed upon Lamy to take up the Preacher's cause. Lamy agreed and is credited for convincing Territorial Governor Edmund Ross to pardon Preacher Crutch. In 1889 Preacher was released after almost 13 years in prison (and a year after Lamy's death and two years after Willi and Flora returned to New York). Thanks to his missing leg and a law passed by Congress in 1890, the Preacher received a small Civil War disability pension and was able to spent the last years of his life quietly living in a small room near Fort Marcy. Preacher Crutch passed away in 1906.

Jack lay largely forgotten and lost. Then sometime early in 1968, Antonio Trujillo, the great-grandson of Joseph, was listening to his grandfather Ray tell family stories to a UNM professor capturing the oral history of the Cochiti Pueblo. Antonio had never heard the story of Jack and while he waited to be drafted and sent to Vietnam, Antonio wandered the lower Caja looking for the grave. Ray's story was fairly specific and after a few trips, Antonio found a small pile of basalt rocks with a few bones. More to honor his great-grandfather and his family and clan than to honor Jack, Antonio tidied up the grave site, then went off to war.

Twenty five years later Antonio took his then 10 year old son Onofre up to the Caja, where he again found the grave and told Onofre the story as they spent an evening over a small campfire near the site. They again neatened the rock grave. Ten years later Onofre revisited the site and added a small wooden cross.

And a few weeks ago as I was aimlessly wandering in the desert, I noticed the small cross from a distance away. I approached, found the grave site, took the picture you see here and made up this story you just read.

Much of which is true.

Thursday, August 21, 2014

Cyndi's Favorite Mesa

Starvation Peak as seem from
the intersection of  Cow Path and B28A
Around 1840 some Apaches ambushed travelers heading towards Santa Fe. The travelers took refuge atop a small mesa near present day Las Vegas, New Mexico.

Or was it sometime around 1790 when Comanches attacked settlers, who took refuge atop the mesa? Or 1720 when Indians pursued by the Spanish army took refuge on the mesa? Or 1680 when Pueblan Indians chased priests to the top of the mesa?

In any case, the refugees slowly died of starvation atop the mesa. Or they escaped. Or were rescued. Or chose suicide over capture.

The mesa now called Starvation Peak was called El Cerrito de Bernal until a traveling reporter for the Detroit Free Press first documented the story in 1884. One variation of the story. As time went by, the number of people huddling atop the mesa grew from a handful to over 120. The details grew more gruesome. Maps changed the name of the peak.

No remains have been found. No nearby graves. No documented evidence. A historian did a thorough search and found no documentary evidence and concluded with his best Rumsfeldian logic that “it might have happened.” Even a psychic investigator found no evidence (but did find ghosts in Bernal).

Have you been atop a small mesa? Question: would you slowly starve to death or would you quickly die of dehydration? Another question: did Indians ever practice siege warfare?

OK, so it's a legend, not history. What can we learn from this legend?

That tourists and travel writers like stories unlike the stories from home?

I like the mesa and I like the name El Cerrito de Bernal. And if I'm going to complain about the legend, I need to create a better legend.

Next week. I'll get to it next week.

Friday, August 15, 2014

Dome Wilderness

An unattended campfire burned 26 square miles of the Dome Wilderness in 1996. Fifteen years later a downed power line burned this area again and burned an additional 200 square miles. Fun fact: on the very first day the second fire burn rate was one acre per second.

Wait, that is not a fun fact. It is a terrifying fact. 70 square miles in 11 hours. This was the Las Conchas fire and it burned to the very edge of Los Alamos, which had to be evacuated for about a week.

It has been 3 years since Las Conchas and we visited the area, driving down the flank of the Jemez volcano on Forest Road 289, skirting the western edge of the Dome Wilderness and eastern edge of the Medio Dia canyon. Trees from the first fire still stand, silhouetted against the sky and contrasting with the abundant wildflowers thriving in the extra sunshine and this year's rainfall. We saw a few mammals, including one juvenile bighorn ram. A couple hummingbirds buzzed Cyndi, a few quail fled into the underbrush and a hopeful vulture followed us for a while. The views through the open fire-scape were awesome.

Medio Dia canyon is just one of many canyons radiating down the volcano. Chiquito Rio carved this canyon through the 600 feet of tuff deposited by a massive explosion 1.2 million years ago. The road was in good shape, except for the parts that weren't. A three foot drop-off about halfway down was fun to go down and seemed impossible to go up, except that an oncoming Ford (the only car we saw on the 17 miles) somehow did climb it and didn't seem overly concerned. Near the bottom we had to cross the Chiquito Rio, then drive along the stream for a quarter mile. I mean to say, in the stream bed and then in sidewall deep mud for a 100 yards. Shortly after this the stream disappeared into the alluvial fan before it had a chance to join the Rio Grande a couple miles further downhill. Most of the canyons here are carved by disappearing streams like this.

It took us about two hours to meander these 17 miles and we were late for lunch, so we hurried back to Santa Fe where Cyndi ate a huge barbecue brisket sandwich and crunchy waffle fries and I ate my standard lunch salad.

Cyndi sucks.





More photos ... even better photos ... at osterhus.tumblr.com

Monday, August 11, 2014

Ancient Roads

New Mexico is criss-crossed with rarely used trails and roads dating back millennium. The one we explored today began about 800 years ago when ancestral Pueblans walked from their pueblo at the base of La Bajada to to tend fields at the top of the rise.

450 years ago the Spanish used this trail as they founded Santa Fe, at first driving heavy muled-powered wheeled carts up from Chihuahua. The trip took about 6 months (today: 8 hours). The carts frequently broke and sensibly the Spanish forwent the carts and eventually used just the mules. While known officially as El Camino Tierra Adentro, it now is more commonly known as El Camino Real, a much more promotable name.

After Mexico ceded New Mexico to the US, the Army needed a better way to ascend the descent and substantially improved the Spanish road up La Bajada about 150 years ago. A bit more than 100 years ago, as the auto brought tourists to New Mexico, the road was improved and called Hwy 1. Perhaps called Hwy 1 because it was the only highway in New Mexico at the time. Don't know for sure, just speculating but it enhances my story. This is the road seen in the photos.

Well, tourism was great and this led to the famous Route 66, which followed Hwy 1 between Santa Fe and Albuquerque. Hwy 1 down La Bajada was too treacherous and so convicts built a bypass in 1928. The bypass was still overly dangerous and in 1932 the highway was relocated a few miles to the east, where it lives today as part of I-25.

While you can in theory still drive on the old Hwy 1 descent, it hasn't been maintained since 1932. It's in terrible shape. Don't try it.

In the early 1930's, shortly after the last relocation, Route 66 itself was re-routed to completely bypass Santa Fe. Seems a Ring of Republicans from Santa Fe ran the state and when a Democrat was elected Governor, he quickly caused this main tourism road to bypass the capital just to twit the clique. Funny thing is that today Santa Fe is very Democratic and the Republican governor would love to do something similar, except that would be far too much like work and if there is anything Susana is good at, it's avoiding work.

Back to 1930, when Santa Fe had no electrical service. A small municipal power company had provided power for a few years from a small generator located in the city, but they went bankrupt and the light bulb went out. Power was brought up from the Albuquerque area along Hwy 1 by constructing the ZB power lines. For their time, these were very high tech lines: a very early use of aluminum cables whose lighter weight allowed the innovative metal power poles to be located 500 feet apart, a huge improvement on the normal 50 foot spacing of the older wooden poles. ZB brought a whopping 46 kVA to Santa Fe. The lines are still in use but will be decommissioned whenever PNM gets around to it.

Today this portion of the old and ancient road is Forest Road 24. Rutted and muddy when it rains, it sees about 10 cars per day, which is probably about an order of magnitude busier than the colonial Spanish era.

Forest Road 24 and Historic Route 66
The old Hwy 1 descent down La Bajada.
Not Recommended for RVs
If you make it this far, you might be tempted to try to go down the descent.
Don't.
The ZB power lines running along FR 24 / Hwy 66.
Santa Fe and the Sangre de Cristos in the distance.